In 1989, Mozambique has been devastated by civil war. There is little hope, but those willing to brave the train trip from Nampula to Malawi over sabotaged tracks can risk their lives to exchange a few bags of salt for sugar. The dangerous journey is slow, and filled obstacles. Mariamu makes the trip often, along with her friend Rosa, a nurse who is going to her new hospital. Lieutenant Taiar, whose life is the military also is a regular, traveling with Salomão, another soldier who he does not get along with well. Along the way, in spite of constant danger, the travelers share laughter and stories of love and war as the train moves from stop to stop.